Motors & Controllers: Difference between revisions
imported>Markmellors →Vevor Motors: added some advice on figuring out the connections |
imported>Markmellors →Vevor and similar 1500-200w large inrunner Motors: added a bit of detail on reversing vevor motor directions |
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== Brushless Motors == | == Brushless Motors == | ||
=== Vevor and similar 1500- | === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === | ||
See [[Rule Zero]] | See [[Rule Zero]] | ||
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Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. | Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. | ||
For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. | |||
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Revision as of 22:19, 23 August 2023
Brushless Motors
Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors
See Rule Zero
Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch".
this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373
The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are:
- power in: two thick wires, probably red and black
- throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal
- power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue
- motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green
- reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above
That may be all you need to get it running.
Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing.
For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work.
Fault Finding Wiring Issues

Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com).
E-Scooter Controllers
See Rule Zero
Alternators & ESCs
See Pink My Ride
Hoverboards
See CYBR TRK
Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated.
The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable.
Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs, and several alternative firmwares are availible. hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features.
Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW.
It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification.
Hall sensors
| part number/label | alt part number | recommended by | datasheet | type | switching point (Gauss) | mv/gauss | pin1 | pin2 | pin3 | suitability |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 13A 117 | SS413A? | OEM? | mouser | bipolar | 140 | 5V | GND | signal | SS413A untested | |
| 3144 | Michael West | elecrow | unipolar | 30 to 440G | 5V | GND | signal | works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller | ||
| 49E OH49E SS49E | Chris Shakespeare | honeywell | linear | 1.4 | 5V | GND | signal | works with VESC |
49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine.
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